Stapeley Water Gardens

Signs of Ill Health:

1. Flicking - some fish may flash against pond surfaces from time to time, but if a few fish are doing this more consistently, then it could be the early signs of a parasite infection or indicate a change in water chemistry.
2. Hanging at the surface - again some fish will lie quietly at the surface, but if the fish don't swim away quickly when disturbed, or a number of fish show other signs of distress, then a serious problem is likely, and further diagnosis is recommended.
3. Mouthing/Gasping at the surface - normal at feeding time, but if a fish is doing this constantly then there is likely to be a problem and it may not be a lack of dissolved oxygen as is usually imagined. That said, this is most likely if the fish are gasping in the morning, but perk up in the afternoon, especially in green water or if the pond pump is turned off at night.
4. Fish aren't feeding - there could be any number of reasonable reasons for this, but if all the fish suddenly don't feed, or if one or two fish that normally feed, refuse food for a few days, whilst other fish feed well, presume there is a problem.
5. Fish lying at the bottom of the pond - some fish, especially larger koi, will do this, most commonly if they have been put through stress. If the fish come up for food then there may not be a problem. However, if said fish don't feed when others do, then presume there is a problem.
6. Rapid or erratic gill cover movement - a general sign of stress or more specifically the indication of a gill, parasite or water quality problem.
7. 'Foggy' colouration/thin opaque coating to skin - excess mucus build up, which is a sign of general stress, poor water quality or more usually, parasites.
8. Clamped fins - fins held closed to the body or flicking is again a general stress indicator or a sign of parasites.
9. Ragged fins - rotting or shredded fins is a sign of bacterial damage, but the initial problem could be caused by parasites or poor water quality
10. Haemorrhaging - blood shot skin or fins is a general stress or disease indicator, further diagnosis is required, especially if other signs exist.
11. Waxy, jelly-like lumps - especially if a fish has had these lumps for a week or more and shows no other signs of distress, then suspect carp pox, which is a generally harmless and common fish virus. The problem usually clears on its own accord and there is no direct treatment available anyway, but do check water chemistry just in case.
12. White, grey or green fluffy growths - in most cases this is a sign of fungus which, like a lot of bacterial problems, is always a secondary infection. It will require treatment but further diagnosis to find the underlying problem is likely to be required.
13. Ulcerous wounds - a simple bacterial wound can occur if a fish is physically damaged and then a potentially harmful bacteria, present in water, invades the wound. Direct treatment with a suitable cream, or a bactericide will usually work well. In more serious cases the problem is usually systemic, and otherwise healthy fish also begin to break out. The problem initially hits a batch of fish but can spread if the underlying problem isn't tackled or appropriate treatment isn't undertaken. If the situation is apparent seek professional advice as soon as possible.
14. Raised scales (a fish has a pine cone like appearance) - often called dropsy, this disease sign has many and varied causes. Affected fish rarely improve, although a long term salt bath may help. Ideally isolate the fish, and check for parasites and test the water chemistry.
I5. Signs of Specific Parasites:
a) salt grained-sized white spots, spreading rapidly from fish to fish - white spot. Quickly apply a good, anti-parasite treatment to the pond.
b) 4 - 6 mm diameter, plaice-like lice - fish lice (for treatment see opposite).
c) 5 - I5 mm long, splinter-like parasites, attached to the fish's body mainly at fin bases - anchor worm (for treatment see opposite).
d) 10 - 30 mm long, thin leaches. Either black, or beige and brown banded -horse or fish leaches.

Controlling Lice, Leaches and Anchor Worm - these larger ectoparasites are not readily controlled by a typical anti-parasite product. Specialist treatments containing organophosphates are effective, but their supply and use is very controlled. A handful of 'off the shelf' products claim to offer some control but, used safely in a pond, their kill rate is usually poor and they are best used as a dip treatment. In fact removing parasites from the fish is straightforward - catch the fish and carefully remove indvidual parasites with tweezers, after they have been dabbed with a strong salt solution. The problem can be controlling the adults and eggs that are not attached to the fish. One option is to sterilise the pond but this isn't always as straightforward as it sounds, or 100% effective. (For further information, contact the centre).
Disease Diagnosis and Treatment
Disease diagnosis isn't easy but a combination of specialist knowledge, a good history. water testing and stock examination will usually indicate the problem and possibly the cause. At Stapeley we have a consultation service that is free. We will try to help over the phone, but this is rarely ideal as a water sample and live fish are often required for a good diagnosis. We can test water and carry out a fish examination, including skin scrapes (which checks for parasites) while you wait, for a small charge. Please note that you may have to wait a short while on busy days, especially weekends, and a telephone call prior to a visit is recommended.