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What do i need to consider when selecting and installing a waterfall?

Despite the reflective tranquillity of a still feature, for most people it is the sight and sound of moving water that really appeals, and there is nothing more striking than water cascading down a waterfall or running along a stream.

Just as with pools, falls can come in many guises - formal or informal, straight or meandering, turbulent or trickling, falling steeply or almost level.

Many things will influence the effect that the feature creates and you will need to think about:

1.The horizontal length of the fall - the only limits being the size of the garden, your imagination and bugdet.

2. The vertical height - often determined by the 'lie of the land', but an artificial slope could be created, just don't do mad as a miniature version of the Himalayas may look out of place unless it backs onto a wall or similar. Don't forget you don't even need to build up the ground to create a formal stream - even if the ground is flat.

3. Number and depth of each step - most falls or streams drop by using steps to create individual falls. Deeper individual falls will reduce the horizontal length of the feature and can look very dramatic but will usually create more splash and noise.

4. Waterfall width - wider structures will look more dramatic but may need a stronger waterflow to look effective. Try to keep the feature in proportion with the garden and pool.

5. Choice of materials - whilst natural stone is the obvious choice, especially for less formal features, other materials such as wooden logs, decorative brick, decorative paving or cobbles/pebbles can look just as effective especially for more formal falls. Remember that in most cases it will be more appropriate to utilise materials that fit in with other similar materials used in the rest of the garden.

6. Pump flow - whilst this will be relative to the size of the water course, the careful positioning of rocks along the fall as well as increasing an individual fall's height can make a weaker flow look more dramatic. The actual flow of any pump will be affected by the diameter of the feed pipe, vertical lift and fall length.

A Stream, Waterfall or Canal/Rill

Whilst there may be fairly obvious differences in nature, in the garden the difference between a stream and a waterfall is often blurred as essentialy, nearly all streams are constructed as a series of elongated pools and falls. Construction techniques are, in very general terms, the same for both. A rill on the other hand is a more formal elongated feature that has no naturla fall, so water moves only by the re-circulating pump 'pushing' it along the channel.

Preformed or D.I.Y

Unlike the comparison of pool linings, when it comes to constructing the waterfall it is true preformed units are much easier to install. How difficult a DIY unit is will depend on the extent of the project, as some features will require a lot of thought, planning and careful construction to work and look effective, whilst others can be as easy as putting a simple pool in.

Selecting preformed units

just as with pools, the big disadvantage of preformed units is the lack of style, finish, and size, plus in most cases they cannot match the visual qualityof a self constructed feature- but things are improving on both counts.

Cheap, limited life and frankly ugly units are now being superseeded by much more natural and robust units that are available in a wider choice of designs. Our range at Stapeley has and will continue to change as units improve, but we try to offer at least one complete range in the following materials.

  •  Rigid UV Resistant Plastic- New manufacturing techniques now result in some very life-like rock effect, plastic units. Colours tend to be rather monotone but the units are light weight, very robust and economically priced. Typically, as they are aimed at the cheaper end of the market, a lot of these units are on the smaller size and may only handle water flows upto approximately 1500 litres per hour (330 gallons).
  • Fibreglass- these units have more resistance to UV damage and are still lightweight. They are however more expensive, but still offerexcellent value as they have a more natural colour and finish.
  • Reinforced concrete- a lot heavier than other materials, but thisdoes provide a greater air of permanance , and although more expensive, the material wins hands down in terms of its natural colour, finish and design. Larger units are also available, some of which can handle water flows approaching 4000 litres per hour (880 gallons).

Buying preformed units

Always have a clear idea of what size an area you have to work with, and if buying a pump at the same time, check what the maximum height from the pool water level to the head of the fall is likely to be.

Many units can be used in isolation, whilst others can be combined; therefore try different units together at the centre.

Because you may not be 100% certain what of what number and type of unit they require until they are in place, at Stapeley you can but any number of units and then return for credit or refund, any that are in an un damaged or unused condition that you don't require. (please ensure at the time for specific terms and conditions)

Installing Preformed Units

  1. Roughly position the units and dig out a trench that provides the required slope, remebering that preformed units often look better with less of, rather thanmore of a slope.
  2. Firm down the ground under the units levelling areas where the flat bases of the units will rest. Using some builders sand or loose soil bed the units into place, starting with the bottom fall and working upwards, making sure taht each unit correctly overlaps the lower. 
  3. Once in place check the falls with the pump flow, if in place, or a hose pipe. Make sure that the flow is level over the units and that water is not seeping over the side of, or in between any of the units
  4. Re-level if necessary and then install the pump delivery pipe along the units and hiding it with soil, plants or rock as it feeds into the header pool or fall. 
  5. Dress the surrounding area with rocks or plants as required

 Self-Constructed Units

Here the world is your oyster; therefore it is worth browsing through a few good books to get some design ideas.

It most cases a fall is made watertight with a flexible liner. Concrete can be used but it is prone to cracking due to frost damage or soil settlement. Liners can be purchased in long narrow strips and there is no concern over creasing as rock, cobbles or similar will disguise the liner. Butyl is preferable to PVC as it is thicker, more flexible and is more likely to be available in your required size.

 Useful things to consider:

  1. using a small header pool to feed the fall can result in a more even and pleasing fall of water
  2. when sizing the liner remember to take into account the depth of the sides and overlap, plus the depths of the falls and any pleating that may be required
  3. if the width or direction of the falls course varies greatly, separate pieces of liner can be used if correctly overlapped to continue the fall.
  4. slope back or construct a retaining edge at the lip of each fall to form a small pool on any flatter sections, so that water is held on the fall when the pump is switched off. This ensures a full width of water and looks more attractive when the pump isn't running.
  5. consider the use of dressing material to break up the stream/falls flow. This makes the water movement more interesting and can allow for a smaller water flow.
  6. the rock or other dressing material will probably need to be bedded into place on mortar. Test any dressing that will affect the water's flow with a flow of water before it is finally fixed into place.
  7. make sure that the sides of the liner and dressing are kept at above the fall's anticipated water level.
  8. always work from the fall of the base upwards